Ra Ra Rasputin

Russian thoughts, the final chapter.

Russia has also proved to evoke "Oh Russia" moments from me (similar to the Oh Japan, usually said at moments of the good and bad kinds of awesome). Some examples of this would be: the massive popularity of the mullet. the trend of wearing see-through clothing, the closing of Red Square for a week, the incredible Stalin Skyscrapers, the beautifully decorated --think chandeliers, and mosaics-- subway system of Moscow, the Orthodox Churches with the floor to top of dome images and icons, a woman singing opera outside a church (she was there at 1pm and still going when we came back that way at 4pm), drinking on the street, high heels galore, and more.

On our first day in St. Petersburg we walked and walked and walked some more. In the rain no less. It was soggy and cold, and it felt very good to finally sit down, once we found our hostel again. (Russia is better than Japan which abhors street signs, but the Russian ones are tiny and hidden, not ideal when ones shoes are pinching and the rain keeps coming down). St.Petersburg has proven to be a beautiful city-- it's fully of old buildings and wonderful architecture. I can easily picture my book characters hopping in carriages and rushing off to see their lovers-- it's great.

Our hostel here is nice-- it's what would happen if an old Russia apartment and Ikea had children. Crazy high ceilings, strange rooms, an old fashioned key, and more ikea furniture and housewares than you can shake a stick at. It just opened this past May, which makes it the 4th place we stayed at that has been open a year or less (Vladivostok was maybe 6 months, Omsk 2 weeks and Moscow maybe a year). Not sure if there is a sudden tourist boom or what, but it's working in our favour. The overnight trip here from Moscow was in itself a lesson in appreciating how lucky we were the rest of our journey. We were in a kupe with a young-ish couple and their 2 year old daughter. Their daughter who had a cough/infection of some manner, and who used her potty in the middle of the room. Crying, coughing, pooing, and a father figure who certainly didn't enjoy having to share the kupe made us quite happy to get off the train in the morning, and appreciative of kupe mates who could take themselves to the bathroom. And it sits in stark contrast to this morning, when I woke up to 6 boys sleeping in their underwear.

Yesterday we went to the old fort, in the rain, a pretty old cathedral, and enjoyed nice views of the city and met an Albertan and his family. First Canadians on the trip yet! Today was a visit to the Hermitage, one of the biggest/best(?) art museums/examples of why the Russians revolted against the aristocracy. Catherine the Great may have gotten her name from her great expenses rather than her love of the peasants. And more walking, some souvenir shopping and then a very nice Russian dinner at a restaurant we found while walking towards the famous theatres. Sadly they were closed by the time we made it there, so I guess next time I go to Russia I will have to get ballet tickets to appreciate the wonders that I hear the theatres are.

I can't quite believe my time in Russia is over, 19 days, gone! but it's been great and I'd love to come back and take my time in the cities I feel I rushed through. Tomorrow to the Netherlands and then to Ireland and then home. So I think this is my last mass email. I would heartily recommends the trans Siberian to anyone. While most Russian people have responded with shock about our taking it without speaking Russian, it is more or less hopping on public transport and carrying on. I certainly appreciated having Paul on this trip with me, for the conversation, and the male presence of protection and hope to one day do it all again but in the winter.